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Fashion or “costume” jewelry, sometimes called “paste” is inexpensive jewelry or accessories – earrings, rings, pendants and bracelets. It was called costume jewelry or paste because it once referred to the “jewels” that were glued or “pasted” to theatrical costumes.At one time, fashion jewelry was made of rhinestones – rock crystals gathered from the river Rhine in Germany, hence the name. In 1775, an Alsatian jeweler by the name of George Frederic Strass came up with the idea of coating the lower side of glass with metal powder to imitate diamonds; Strass became the German word for rhinestones.Over the years, various materials have been used to make costume jewelry – rhinestones, Lucite or ‘bakelite’, as well as zirconium, high-end crystals or laboratory-generated gemstones, as well as various metals or materials (pewter, nickel or brass) that have been gold-plated to simulate real gold.Although made of inexpensive materials, many costume jewelry pieces were designed by artists and craftsmen with a unique style and design; in many cases, high-end fashion jewelry has become “collectible” items which can bring in high prices when sold. A market for vintage fashion jewelry has also sprung up, making it a worthwhile investment.Bakelite Fashion JewelryBakelite is a plastic, castable material that is fire resistant which was invented in 1909 by Leo Baekland. Originally used in industry such as for the manufacture of radios and other items, jewelers soon found that its inexpensive cost and light weight made it perfect for the making of pins, earrings, bracelets and other items.Bakelite jewelry gained increasing popularity in the 1930s and 1940s when new colors were introduced. These new colors captured the imagination of designers and jewelry companies, including the world famous Coco Chanel had Bakelite jewelry designed for her fashion house.Some high-end vintage Bakelite figurals (or jewelry designed in fun shapes, ranging from people to wishing wells) have sold for as high as $1,100; one pin of a marbled green cat with a pivoting tail sold for $6,050.Unfortunately, the rising prices for vintage Bakelite jewelry has brought out the seamy side of the industry, with many people melting down authentic Bakelite (such as vintage 1930 radio sets) and recycling these into ‘authentic’ pieces. While many craftsmen do not hide the fact that their products are “modern products made from old materials and designs,” the buyers of these sometimes ‘forget’ to inform people of the fact when they are resold.Tips to Identify Authentic Bakelite JewelryThere are two ways to “authenticate” true Bakelite jewelry – the so-called “409 Test” in which a cotton swab dipped in 409 household cleaner is touched to the back of a piece – somewhere that can’t be seen when worn – and if the piece is authentic, the accumulated patina will show up on the swab as yellowish stain.The other is to place the piece in hot water and sniff – warmed Bakelite smells like camphor.As noted, however, there are ‘fake’ Bakelite jewelry made from authentic materials fashioned recently. Experts in the field recommend that if you wish to try your hand at collecting these deal only with reputable, experienced dealers.
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