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This is a contemporary salad which has actually been around for quite a while now and we regularly prepare it as part of our cooking holiday in France. I think it has achieved classic status. The only thing that needs any preparation to speak of is the dressing, but the pears do need to be ripe and juicy – comice are perfect for this – and the parmesan needs to be shaved from a fresh block (if you haven’t got any to hand, a good strong cheese like stilton or feta will do very nicely indeed, but completely forget about using that dirty sock-flavored sawdust sold in pots, laughingly labeled ‘Freshly Grated Parmesan’). If you want to turn this from a starter into a main course just add some strips of dry-cured ham, smoked duck breast, or sautéed chicken livers. Serves four Ingredients: 2 ripe juicy comice pears 1 lemon 1 tblsp white wine vinegar salt 1 tsp grain mustard 6 tblsp walnut oil freshly ground black pepper handful roquette handful of fresh walnut halves, roughly crushed small block of fresh parmesan Method: Peel and core the pears, then smear with a little lemon juice to prevent them turning brown. Put the vinegar and a good pinch of salt in a screw-top jar and shake until the salt has dissolved. Add the mustard and walnut oil, then shake again to emulsify – the emulsion will hold for ten minutes or so, but give it another jiggle just before you use it to dress the salad. Assemble the salad: slice the pears lengthwise into thin segments and place them rustically on four serving plates along with the roquette, then scatter over the bruised walnuts. Drizzle with the vinaigrette. Using a potato peeler, shave the parmesan over the salad, then ‘dust’ with a little ground black pepper.
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